‘Every Culinary Artist Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.

Nancy Hart
Nancy Hart

Alexandra is a freelance writer and life coach passionate about helping others achieve their goals through mindful living and continuous learning.